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Why use Western Bits, Part 2-Unveiling origins, principles and advantages

Advantages of Western bits – leverage and severity is bogus

People who are knowledgeable in the art of western riding understand that leverage bits are designed for optimum performance and not designed with the intention of exerting excessive force on the horse.   These elegant bits are designed to achieve increased signal to the horse and proper head and neck position to achieve collection when desired.  In this part we will explore why for generations western riders transition their horses to the traditional western bit.  Ranking western bits upon some undefined system of severity or focusing on potential force is simply misguided.

Transitioning to the western leveraged bit is a progression through a process. The horse needs to have achieved a level of training before being introduced to a leveraged bit and the rider needs to have developed a level of skill sufficient to use the western leveraged bit as intended.  Western riding relies heavily on the rider’s seat and legs to direct and control the horse, with the reins used to modify rein motion and obtain the desired head set and neck positions for collection. The best riders in this style of horsemanship are recognized for their skill, demonstrated through their horse’s collection, swiftness, and calmness.  So let’s embrace the true essence of western riding and extract the principles of the bits developed throughout its rich cultural and historical roots.

To understand the basics of the issue, in Part 1 we delved into the mechanics of leverage and applied those principles to leveraged bits, . We learned how force is transmitted to the horse’s mouth and discovered that the incorrect modeling of the bit as a class 1 lever can underestimate the potential applied force. Additionally, we explored the difference between force and pressure.  The magnitude of the sensation the horse feels depends more upon the surface area over which the force is applied (pressure) and the location where pressure is applied.  We discovered these calculations have led to a trend rating or ranking of bits according to “severity.” However, the application of the ranking has no standard (or units) and is inconsistently understood and applied by manufacturers, instructors, and users. Additionally, it overlooks the essential components of the bridle system, such as the rider’s experience and use of their hands.

In Part 2, we will learn from well referenced material how, despite the accuracy of the theoretical concepts of leverage described in Part 1, the design principles of western bits, their associated pressure and location, and bit operation make leverage calculations and severity ratings irrelevant.

Our focus here is on the western riding style, particularly for working horses using traditional western bits. It is crucial to distinguish between riding in a western saddle and riding western in the reinsman style, which allows for precise movement and control of the horse with minimal force and rein movement.

Working Cattle Requires Precise Horse Control

Traditional western riding was developed and evolved for working cattle, often wild cattle or cattle not used to humans or horses.  Working with any large animal with its own moods and desires can be a dangerous business.  Even with polled (hornless) cattle and selective breeding (to get a better tempered bovine), working, doctoring, and moving cattle requires the rider to have immediate and precise control of the horse’s position. This includes fast stops and departures, sudden changes of direction, turning the horse on the forehand and haunches, sidepassing, and starting and stopping with only one hand on the reins. All of this must be achieved while being aware of the surroundings. Working horseback in a corral with a considerable number of cattle, trucks, branding gear, and multiple people on the ground requires a significant amount of skill to ensure safety. The best riders in these scenarios are recognized for their skill, demonstrated through their horse’s collection, swiftness of movement, calmness, and quiet hands.

In western riding, reinsmen do not rely heavily on force applied to the reins. The position and movement of the horse is accomplished by the seat and legs.  The bits are used to achieve a particular horse position known as collection, enabling quick responses. Therefore, leverage bit calculations and severity hold little importance.

It is worth mentioning that competition, show, and performance horse disciplines have evolved their own unique needs and requirements, which are different from those required for working horses. Those interested in the competition world should delve into the specific needs, equipment, and guidance from experts in those disciplines.

Western Riding Has Spanish Roots

As Dr. Bennett explained in her book Conquerors, The Roots of New World Horsemanship: “No bit,or any other single item of equipment, can be properly understood out of its cultural and historical context.”⁷  Western riding has its origins in the Spanish jineta style of riding, preserved and cherished in the seventeenth-century hacienda period.  A video showcasing the Spanish jineta style of riding, titled “Spanish Jimeta Horsemanship,” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YXusV8q1cI  ⁸ provides an excellent visual representation. While observing the horses’ movements, pay attention to the rider’s hands, as hand movement will be further discussed. Notably, the reins are mostly loose, allowing riders the freedom to use their hands for various tasks, including using a garrocha pole, swinging a sword, avoiding a bull, using a rope, or simply opening a gate. ​

As Dr. Deb Bennett explained: “Traditionally, the expert horseman of this tradition works his horse for several years in the bosal before bitting is even considered.  The horse is started at from age two to four.  He would thus generally be six to eight years old before bitting.”⁷

Use One’s Seat and Legs

In the western reinsman tradition, before one introduces the horse to a leveraged bit, the horse is already performing maneuvers by cues from the rider’s leg and seat: move forward, stop, back up, turn, move the front and rear quarters, trot and canter.  As veterinarian Dwight G. Bennett says: “Bits and bridles are for communication. They are not handles to stabilize the rider in the saddle or instruments for punishing the horse.  The accomplished rider uses his seat and legs before he uses his bit to communicate his wishes to his mount. Indeed, the most important factor in achieving soft, sensitive hands on the reins is to develop a good seat.”⁶

I again refer to the experience and wisdom of A. R. Rojas: “The men who understood the function of the curb bit tried to use its bruising power as little as possible.  They avoided pulling on the bit, by guiding their horse with their legs.  They saw the analogy in the horse’s mouth and a workman’s hands.  The old-time riders learned very early in their experiences with horses that the more a rider pulled on a horse’s mouth, the harder and less sensitive the horse’s mouth will become, just as a man’s hands will become hard and calloused from the continual contact with the handle of a shovel or a hoe.”²

The maneuvers of the horse are traditionally taught on the ground and in the saddle using a snaffle bit or bosal, removing the necessity of using the force available with a leveraged bit. The golden rule of horsemanship, often quoted by horse trainer Clinton Anderson (and others), applies: “Be as easy as possible; but as firm as necessary.”  Hence the goal should be refinement of movement and response, using less force.

Signal Intensity, Pressure and Location

Here is an import extracted principle: Force does not equal pain or severity!  PRESSURE (force / area) and LOCATION of the pressure is a better estimate of the intensity of the signal.  Knowing the force potential of a bit is not enough to determine severity.

I say intensity of the signal because the quotes above from Ed Connell ⁹tells us we do not want to cause severe pressure or pain if we are teaching a horse to bridle or if we are riding a bridle horse.  

Additionally, one must learn the intended effects of various mouthpieces and cheek pieces to understand their principles and effectively apply them.

The Proper Mouthpiece

When considering mouth pieces, the surface area presented to the horse’s mouth and to where the pressure is applied or relieved determines the intensity of the signal.  Generally, the larger the surface area to which a force is applied, the less intense the pressure.  For example, the purpose of a twisted snaffle mouth piece is to reduce the contact surface area in the horse’s mouth.  Hence, for the same amount of force on the reins, the pressure is greater with a twisted mouthpiece compared to one that is not twisted of the same size.  Hence, only knowing the force potential of a leveraged bit  is NOT adequate to determine harshness.  Therefore, one must consider more than just force or Cheek Piece length/Purchase length.

Remember: the surface area(s) over which the force is applied AND the location(s) of the pressure is a relative indication of signal intensity.

There are hundreds of mouth pieces available in the market today.  Only a few should ever be used with leveraged cheekpieces.   One must learn the intended effects of the various mouth pieces and cheek pieces to obtain the principles associated with them, and the application of those principles to the occupation of the horse.

 Traditional Western Leveraged Bits

The western leveraged bit is generally classified by its two major components, the cheek piece style and the mouthpiece.  One must study the effects of the various mouth pieces and cheek pieces to extract the principles associated with them, and apply those principles principles to the occupation of the horse (what you want the horse to be able to do).  Generally, the traditional western reinsman bits fall into three categories:  the grazer bits, the ported bits, and the spade bits.

Categories of Traditional Western Bits

Spade Bit

I highly recommend the DVD “The Bit Video: Understanding How and Why Bits Function” by Dauphin Horsemanship³as a comprehensive source for understanding the principles of these and other bits.

At this point I hope your are wondering “if amplification of force is not the goal, then why transition to a western leveraged bit?”  The answer is horse posture and modification of motion (action) of the reins BEFORE the curb strap becomes tight.  When using their horses, western riders want to be able to obtain the desired position of the horse using one hand, their seat, and legs.

Obtaining Collection and Self-Carriage

The horse’s posture is essential to obtaining the best performance from the horse.  Proper head and neck position is most important to have the horse ride in a position called self-carriage and collection.  Collection is a particular posture adopted by horses which is not only beautiful to look at but one that helps the horses move while bearing weight on their back.  The best article I have found that gives an anatomical explanation of collection is The Ring of Muscles Revisited by Dr. Deb Bennett.  One can find and download this on the Equine Studies Institute website: https://www.equinestudies.org/required-reading .¹⁰  In that article she states: “Since vertebral motions govern the motions of the limbs it should be no surprise to learn that collection and extension of step and of stride are the product of the oscillatory dynamics of the back.  In other words: in the locomotion of the horse, back dynamics govern limb dynamics.”  So, if posture of the horse and modification of motion is the goal, one needs to fully understand and recognize this posture or desired modification of movement (action and signal) before transitioning to or using a leveraged bit.  To further complicate matters, that “proper position” varies depending upon the breed of the horse and the conformation of the individual horse within his breed.  For example, the Iberian breeds of the Spanish Iberian horses or jennet have a more vertical natural headset whereas the quarter horse has a natural headset more forward of the vertical.  That is to say quarter horses naturally carry there noses more forward than Iberians.  The same mouthpiece angle would not work well for both breeds.  Then one must consider the head set variations of the specific horse.  The early patrons of this style of riding would have an expert bit maker who would adjust the angle of the bit and its balance to best suit the horse’s developed carriage, as explained in Dr. Deb Bennet’s book Conquerors, the Roots of New World Horsemanship.  Dr. Bennet also explains the importance of horse breeds and the history of riding styles in that book.⁷

Another great source for riding in the western reinsman style is Pat and Deb Puckett.  Pat’s books, videos, and website: The Disciplined Ride,¹¹ contains a wealth of information and his YouTube videos online are free.  He also points out that the proper headset (and neck position) varies depending on several factors.  A very important factor is the breed of the horse.  

Recall that in Part 1, we used a mullen or straight mouthpiece to make the explanation of leverage simple.  Using a ported mouth piece complicates the principles of a leveraged bit, but these ports enhance the cues to the horse and help the skilled and knowledgeable rider obtain the desired horse’s position for the situation.  In this article we are just going to touch on the principles of these bits to give one enough knowledge to understand why they are desired by western riders and decide if they are good option for the occupation of the horse.  Ed Connell’s book, Reinsman of the West⁹ has an excellent description of these bits as well as Pat and Deb Puckett’s YouTube Video: Pat’s take on Bits at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvt0PBr61Cc  .¹²

Ported Bit

I mentioned that purpose of the ported mouthpiece and the leveraged western bit is to aid the horse to obtain the appropriate position of his head and neck (head set).  The explanation of ports found in the media is another topic that has very conflicting, and sometimes just incorrect information.  One can only try and extract the principle of the mouthpiece that the manufacture is claiming.  My advice is to always second check a person’s claim who is trying to sell a product.  Please do not misunderstand, we need innovation and sales distribution for bits.  But many horse problems are actually rider knowledge and training issues and are often not corrected by changing bits.  Actually, the issue can be made worse if the introduction and handling of the new bit is not carefully done.  A. R. Royas said:“Most riders buy bits in the fond hope that they will work without the rider taking the trouble to learn their function.  There are tons of discarded bits and hundreds of spoiled horses that could have been made useful if the riders would have given a little thought to the matter of bits and made an effort to study their action in the horse’s mouth.  Good horsemen are not made by miracle bits.  True, better bits enable a horseman to do a better job; but an unskilled horseman cannot do a good job, no matter what bit he uses, because there are no miracle bits.”²

I have provided several useful references for understanding the principles of leveraged bits.  Of these, the DVD “The Bit Video: Understanding How and Why Bits Function” by Dauphin Horsemanship,³ addresses many commonly found bits, both leveraged and direct reined.  It is the most comprehensive bit video I have viewed, discussing many bit topics that are simply avoided by other references.

The head and neck posture to obtain collection is achieved by the horse’s response to the traditional western bits or a spade bit.  Traditional western bits usually have a ported mouth piece.  These ports can be anywhere from 3/4 inch to 4 inches in length as measured from where the mouthpiece joins the cheek piece.  There are many styles of ported mouth pieces and the design of the ports normally has two functions: 1) signal to the horse; 2) tongue relief (usually a tongue groove when required).

Tongue Relief

A quick word about tongue relief.  The term “relief” makes it sound like one should want relief to be nice to the horse.  Recall that PRESSURE is the force divided by the surface area over which the force is applied.  So if I have a tongue groove that relieves pressure from the tongue, then the relieved force applied by the rider’s hands must be applied to some other surface area…usually to the lips and bars of the horse.  That may be a smaller area, therefore increasing pressure in the horse’s mouth for the same amount of pull (force) on the reins.  One must ensure that the conformation of the horse’s mouth warrants tongue relief and that the rest of the mouth can handle the pressure.  Refer to: If the Bit Fits by Ross Hecox, Western Horseman Magazine, 2015¹³.  I have found that watching the horse respond to the bit is the best way to determine if tongue relief is a better option. 

Watching a horse gape its mouth open and tucking its chin to its chest, is a sign of too much pressure and an unskilled horsemen.  Often, lightening up on the reins and slowing down the signals on the reins (quiet hands) accomplishes the desired position.  “All old time riders knew this and would use bits with straight bar mouth pieces only, that is to say, bits that did not have tongue space.  The proof is that most of the old style bits found today have straight bar mouthpieces.”—A.R. Rojas.²

Signal and Self Carriage

Helping the horse obtain the proper head (and neck) position is the function of the high port of the western bit.  The port is designed and BALANCED to normally lie lightly on the horse’s tongue.  To achieve this balance, one must also consider the weight of the reins and their action, including bit (slobber) chains.  The other side of the port may, or may not, be touching the roof of the horse’s mouth (pallet).  This is where the balance of the bit comes into play.  If the horse raises or moves his nose forward the port of the bit will contact or tap the roof of the horse’s mouth.  This encourages the horse to lower his head and or raise at the poll to get its mouth back in line with the bit (i.e. remove the pressure).  If the horse tucks his chin, then the bit lies more against the horse’s tongue, and then again the horse will go into the proper head position (more forward) to minimize this pressure of the bit.  When the mouth piece is rotated forward or backward, either by the reigns or by gravity, the horse has learned how and will position his head and neck to make the pressure as comfortable as possible for the horse.

An issue with ported bits is that too harsh, quick, or inappropriate hand movements will cause the horse to open his mouth to avoid pressure on the pallet of the horse’s mouth and or tongue.  We desire to have the horse work comfortably with a closed mouth and without aids (noseband).  Again, referring to Ed Connell: “When the horse works with a closed mouth, he will give to the slight pressure on the bit.”⁹ This is where a properly adjusted curb strap along with proper hand movement is very important as described below.

Pallet Pressure

A popular website in an article called A Bit on Bitting: Mouthpieces states:  “The rein pressure triggers the port to rotate into the palate. Ports are typically 2-2.5″ to enact pressure on the roof of the mouth.”  This idea is repeated on many sites.  “The port places pressure along the tongue and, if high enough, the roof of the mouth. Ports with 2 1/2 inches or more of elevation can apply pressure on the upper palate” – Understanding bits for Horses Learning Lesson, July 31, 2019.  Honestly, I don’t know where this idea comes from or what they are trying to say.  My horses like to carry the bit on their tongue against the roof of their mouth.  Even if I lay my finger across their tongue out flat (palm up) and try to bend the middle joint of my finger upward toward the roof of the horse’s mouth, I come into contact with the horse’s pallet within ½ inch of movement of my finger tip.

Introduction of a Horse to the Ported Bit

The introduction of a horse to a ported bit, even a grazer bit, takes time and patience.  One should introduce the horse to the bit and allow the horse to just stand with the bit in the horse’s mouth for a few hours at first, watching the horse and increasing the time depending upon the horse’s reactions to the bit.  Some horses don’t react well the first time and toss and flip their heads.  The goal is to allow the horse to learn by simply holding the bit such that it is his head and neck position that releases any pressure.  He will find the spot where the bit is not adding pressure to the roof of the mouth or the tongue.  This process (often called hanging the horse) will take days or longer depending upon the type of bit and the horse.  Pat and Deb Puckett has an excellent YouTube video on introducing a horse to a western bit at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIWs53fIzyo  ¹⁵.  As Ed Connell said in his book: “Doing it this way takes a little more time, but the horse is better off by so doing.  It will take a certain amount of time to bridle a horse correctly with any kind of a bit, especially the Spade and Chileno bits.  There is no short cut for it and do a lasting job.  The hurry up jobs never last, and then the horse has to be continuously retrained.”⁹

Most riders do not want to take the time for the horse to be ready to handle the western bit or learn how to handle the bit themselves.  Not allowing the horse to become accustomed to the bit and incorrectly handling a leveraged bit (handing the leveraged bit as one would a snaffle or bosal) is one reason why the leveraged bit could get the reputation of being severe.  Attempting this transition should be done by or under the supervision of advanced riders or horse trainers.  Hopefully these advanced riders or horse trainers will be mentoring the less experienced rider to the principles.

The All Important Curb Strap

This essential part of the leveraged bit is also misunderstood and often incorrectly applied.  It is actually dangerous to do some of the things I have seen recommended on various web sites and videos regarding curb strap adjustment (some even have said to leave the curb strap off.)  This is why the rider must extract the principle of the leveraged bit.

We have seen that when the reins are moved rearward, that the cheek piece and mouthpiece rotate about the axis of the mouth piece where it 

Improperly Adjusted Curb Strap

This curb strap is too loose allowing the mouthpiece to go perpendicular to the horse’s pallet under tension.

Another important function of the curb strap is to provide a fulcrum to make the bit a leveraged bit.  Leverage can only occur when the rotation of the bit is resisted or the lever comes under load (see Part I).  That is the function of the curb strap.  When the curb strap becomes engaged then increased pressure is added to the tongue, lips, bars, and the curb (underside of the jaw of the horse).  In western riding, the concept is simple.  If the curb strap becomes tight, the horse should be trained to stop!  This means the rider has already given the cue for the horse to stop using his seat.  Again, the desired goal is as little pressure as possible to stop the horse.

We now understand the curb strap is important and that it must be properly adjusted.  But what is properly adjusted?  This will vary slightly depending upon the mouthpiece of the bit and the confirmation of the horse’s mouth.  If the strap is too tight the bit will be solid against the horse’s tongue and the horse will not be able to work the bit around in his mouth or work the roller or cricket (if the bit has one) with his tongue.  If the strap is too loose then the bit rotates too far and it can put too much pressure on the roof of the mouth (ported bit), or require a lot of movement of the riders hands. 

We typically use our fingers to measure the proper adjustment.  Why?  Because we always have our hands with us.  While standing on the ground one can simulate the rearward movement of the reins when in the saddle and obtain the desired curb strap adjustment .  By watching the horse’s reaction to the bit and the bit’s action, one can determine the proper adjustment.  Typically, a ported bit is only allowed to rotate about 30 degrees when under tension.  Then one can use their fingers to determine the distance from the curb strap to the horse’s jaw as a reference.  One finger, two fingers, two fingers side by side, two fingers stacked, it will depend upon the size of the person’s hands.  Why check it at all if it has been adjusted?  Well, most all materials stretch or wear with use.  Leather can shrink and become brittle.  Plus leather needs to be taken off periodically and treated.

There have been all kinds of curb strap devices and materials used to increase or decrease the pressure of the curb strap.  Remember the golden rule: “Be as easy as possible; but as firm as necessary.”  The leveraged bit is not a bit to begin training horses.  The goal in not to cause pain.  The horse should be trained to stop from the riders’s seat and skeleton before using a leveraged bit.  If one is concerned about the curb strap causing too much pressure, then recall pressure is force divided by surface area.  Increase the width of the strap to decrease the pressure applied by the curb strap to the horse’s curb.  A wider curb strap will NOT decrease the pressure applied to the mouth piece.  Horse trainers may use curb straps with less surface area to teach the horse to stop quickly when the curb strap becomes engaged.  After learning to stop on the signal, then the trainer will go to a chin strap with more surface area. 

Also, selecting the material of the curb strap is important.  The material should not stretch under tension.  Some nylon webbing stretches too much under load.  Leather curb straps works well or used in conjunction with a flat chain. 

Hand Movements are Different with Leveraged Bits

Unless one is a horse trainer, DO NOT transition to or use a leverage bit to “get more handle” on a horse.  If one has to use pounds of pressure on the reins to obtain the desired response from the horse, then the rider or horse is not ready for a leveraged bit.  When using a leveraged bit, the force applied to the reins should be in ounces…not pounds!  This is another reason why the force calculations of a leveraged bit really don’t matter.  Movement of leverage bit reins is forward or backward, higher or lower to obtain the desired result of head and neck position.

One should NOT be lifting one side of the bit more than can be done with one hand (on both reins) or taking the rein hand out to the side as is done with a greener horse or rider using a snaffle bit.  This is a very common mistake with inexperienced riders and leveraged bits.

Rein Control is Different for Leveraged Bits

Effects of Pulling Right Rein to Outside

The rider’s hands are usually above the horse’s mouth and lifting one side or taking one’s hands out to the side tilts the bit in the horse’s mouth.  This can cause the mouthpiece turn diagonally in the horse’s mouth and not work as designed on the sensitive part of the horse’s mouth or move the mouthpiece against his teeth.  Taking one’s hands out to the side (and upward) often drives the top of the purchase on that side into the horse’s face. The horse moves his head away from this pressure which is the opposite of the cue the rider is trying to achieve.  So the rider pulls harder causing more pain.  This will cause the horse to resist the reins, develop a brace, or develop a hard mouth.

Unless stopping, the desired response with a leverage bit should be obtained during the signal phase or before the curb strap becomes tight.  Remember, a tight curb chain means “whoa.”  As veterinarian Dwight G. Bennett says in his article: An Overview of Bits and Bitting:  “An important concept in bitting is signal, which is the time between when the rider begins to pull on the reins and the time the bit begins to exert pressure in the horse’s mouth.”⁶  As a horse becomes schooled, it learns to recognize the initial increase in rein pressure and to respond before significant pressure is applied.

The Spade Bit

Probably the most maligned leveraged bit by ignorant people is the spade bit.  They simply see all of that metal and that long spade mouth piece (sometimes 4 inches) and they think it must be a torture device.  Since few riders are capable of riding a spade bit horse, and even fewer people are able to train a spade bit horse, I will not take a lot of space to write about it here.  I just want to say the spade bit has some great advantages, and one of the most sophisticated and effective types of bit ever invented, because it acts directly to induce the horse to raise the base of the neck and keep it raised.  When some people see a spade bit they think the spade can be forced hard against the horse’s pallet.  You now know that a properly adjusted curb strap stops the rotation of the spade after one or two inches after the spade is lifted away from the horse’s tongue.

Teaching a horse to be straight up in the bridle of a spade bit is the ultimate achievement in westerns reinsman riding, and being able to ride a western bridled horse well is the highest compliment one can give to a horse.  The process takes a long time (years) and few are able to achieve it.  But the reward is reaching the summit of western horsemanship.

The Extracted Principles of a Western Leveraged Bit (Summary)

There is much discussion about leverage and force applied by the western curb bit.

Much of this discussion in regards to the resultant force on the mouth piece revolves around the application of lever models to the bit.  Many sources greatly underestimate this mouthpiece force because they incorrectly model the mechanical advantage of the bit as a Class 1 lever, thus calculating the force on the curb strap load instead of the mouth piece.  Modeled as a class 1 lever, the mouth piece would actually be the fulcrum of that lever system and the force on the fulcrum would be more than that of the curb strap.

I have shown, through applied mechanics and experiment in part 1, that the leveraged bit is more correctly modeled as a class 2 lever and that the curb strap actually acts as the fulcrum when it becomes engaged.  With the Mullen or straight mouth piece, there is no lever action until the curb strap becomes engaged.  A more correct model is to consider the mouthpiece a class 2 lever, hence:

The mechanical advantage or leverage ratio as applied to a leveraged bit is:

In the calculations of Part I, we saw that 5 lbs of force can be transformed into 20 lbs. of force on the mouth piece of the leveraged bit.  This mouthpiece force can be increased beyond 20 lbs. by using a different Cheek Piece to Purchase ratio.

We also addressed that these numbers are for ideal leavers and that they do not accurately describe the pressure on the mouthpiece of the horse.  The actual pressure has many variables and the situation is constantly changing so these calculations are at best an indication of the potential of the bit if mishandled.

When the average person talks about a lever or leveraged bit they talk about this application of force.  They rarely discuss the modification of motion (distance the load moves in relation to the movement of the reins).  Modification of motion is an important feature of the leveraged bit as it affects the intensity of the signal provided to the horse by the bit.  Bit signal is loosely described as the amount of movement of the mouthpiece and reigns before the curb chain becomes engaged.  

The purpose of these leverage discussions seem to be to rank bits in accordance with a non-standardized measure called severity.  Severity is similar to the X ratings of a cowboy hat.  Those X ratings are supposed to indicate the amount of beaver fur in the hat’s felt.  The problem is that there is no standard for the number of Xs between manufactures.  One manufacturer may say it is a 500X hat and have the same amount of beaver as a 10 X or 100X of other manufacturers.  The same holds true with the severity ratings of bits.  Those ratings have no standardization. 

If we were to consider severity as the amount of pain or discomfort a horse feels, then we discovered that pressure (force applied divided by the surface area) is a better indicator.  Also, where the pressure is applied must be considered (some tissues are more sensitive to pressure than others).  Thus “severity” is an inaccurate measure of which bit to purchase (or avoid).  One must extract the principle of any bit to determine its applicability to a horse’s performance.

We also read the opinions of riding experts and veterinarians, that the infliction of pain in the horse’s mouth has no place in the bridling of a horse.

The proper functioning of a leverage bit is dependent upon a proper and properly adjusted curb strap.  A leveraged bit should always be ridden with a curb strap.  Without the curb strap there is no stopping signal.  The curb strap also prevents excessive rotation of the mouthpiece. 

To choose a correct bit one must first decide what the horse’s occupation will be.  One must have a clear goal in mind when it comes to exactly what one hopes to accomplish in choosing a bit.  Most of the information on bitting is based on the bit, not the reason why we use certain bits, which is largely anatomical based.  The western leveraged bit is designed to obtain horse posture and modification of motion (action) of the reins.  When working their horses, western riders want to be able to obtain the desired position of the horse using one hand, their seat, and legs.

“No bit, or any other single item of equipment, can be properly understood out of its cultural and historical context.”—Dr. Deb Bennett.⁷   Western riding is a style of horsemanship and culture that has evolved from the ranching and animal welfare of the Spanish Conquistadors to the Mexican vaquero to the cowboys of the 1800s.  These roots required riders to ride for many hours and obtain the maximum performance of their horses to get the job done in often hazardous and harsh conditions.  Their skills and ability of their horses became a matter of pride for the horseman, and of course competition developed amongst the riders to see which riders could perform the best.  These competitions were informally conducted when the men from various ranches would gather their cattle for branding.  In fact, the term rodeo means round up or gathering in Spanish. 

To use the western leveraged bit without considering and practicing the historical training methods of the horse and rider is a mistake.  The leveraged bit is not for the novice rider or a green horse.  To avoid pain and severe treatment to the horse, the horse (and rider) must be trained and able to perform most maneuvers from the seat and legs before introducing them to the leveraged bit.  The horse should be introduced to the bit (hung) before the reins are worked as not to frighten the horse and prepare it for the new cues and signals it will experience.  The rider should handle the leveraged bit reins differently than other bits.  The rider needs quiet hands and resist the urge to use the potential force of the leveraged bit.  The applied force must be smooth (no jerking) and light and to allow the horse to work with a light closed mouth on the bit.  There is never any necessity for had pulling on the reins if the horse is given time to learn to handle the bit in his mouth and with the proper posture.  This is why the leverage calculations and “severity” of the western bit are not important.  This style of riding requires study, knowledge, practice, and time to be competent and consistent with the bit.  Not being aware of the traditional handling and training of the horse is what could cause pain to the horse while using a traditional piece of equipment.  Handling the bit in accordance with the principles of its design and purpose is the best way to obtain the best performance from the horse and rider.  There is no sense dwelling on the punishment, if one has no desire to commit the crime…that’s cowboy Logic!

References

Below are the references provided for Part I and Part II: The following references were used for the generation of this article on western leveraged bits.  Where practical, I suggest reading them in their entirety as they contain a wealth of knowledge to help one communicate with the horse.

1. Deb Bennett, The Equine Studies Institute, Internet source
2. Rojas, Arnold R. Bits, Bitting and Spanish Horses. Alamar Media, Inc., 2010
3. Daniel Dauphin, The Bit Video: Understanding How and Why Bits Function by Dauphin Horsemanship, DVD, 2022
4. Jax, Curb Chain, Horse-Pros.com. July 4 2016, Internet source
5. Lynn Kohr, Curb Strap Adjustments. Cavvy Savvy, March 20, 2015, Internet source
6. Dwight G. Bennett, DVM, PhD, An Overview of Bits and Bitting. Damascus Equine Associates, [PDF],(No date), Internet source
7. Deb Bennett, PhD. Conquerors, The Roots of New World Horsemanship. Amigo Publications, 1998
8. Vido Clip from Guns, Germs and Steel: Spanish Jimeta Horsemanship. National Geographic Society, YouTube, Internet source https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YXusV8q1cI
9. Ed Connell. Reinsman of the West: Briddles and Bits. Lennoche Publishers, 1964
10. Deb Bennett, PhD. The Ring of Muscles Revisited [PDF]. Equine Studies Institute, 2008. Internet source https://www.equinestudies.org/required-reading
11. Pat and Deb Puckett. The Disciplined Ride. 2019. Internet source https://www.thedisciplinedride.com/
12. Pat and Deb Puckett. Pat’s take on Bits.  YouTube, 2019.  Internet source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvt0PBr61Cc  .
13. Ross Hecox. If the Bit Fits. Western Horseman Magazine, October 20, 2015. Internet source: https://westernhorseman.com/horsemanship/how-to/if-the-bit-fits-2/
14. Hilary M. Clayton, BVMS, PhD, MRCVS and R. Lee, BVSc, DVR, PhD, MRCVS. A Fluoroscopic Study of the Position and Action of Different Bits in the Horse’s Mouth. Equine Veterinary Science,1985.
15. Pat and Deb Puckett. Hanging Styx in the Las Cruces Half Breed…and Other Business. YouTube, 2021.  Internet source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIWs53fIzyo